Julia Chwalinska [email protected]
AI mock-up: a worn band T-shirt as the bodice of a black ball skirt, in a basement venue
AI mock-up of look 01, The heirloom, generated in ChatGPT. Not a photograph.
Concept 02 · not yet shot

Merch table

The basement is the ballroom. The merch is the inheritance.

Type
Editorial concept
Status
Not yet shot
Links to
KiNi, TRAWA
Colour
Tar, oxblood, faded red, bleach
Mood
Sweaty basement, shot like a palace

A band T-shirt costs fifteen pounds and gets kept for twenty years: a first gig, a friendship, a whole version of yourself. This story gives that shirt the treatment of an heirloom.

It runs on from TRAWA, where the hand-painted set was the message. No real band logos: an invented band with its own gig dates, flyers turned into prints and sleeves customised by hand, as if the clothes were collected over years of shows.

Shot in a small basement venue after the show, but lit and posed like a formal portrait. The make-up and the pose are formal; the clothes refuse to be.

Inspiration: where it comes from01
Undercover, T, SS2006
01 Undercover, T, SS2006
Jun Takahashi invented whole bands and re-cut their T-shirts into dresses. The single most important reference: make your own band, don’t borrow a famous one.
Vogue Runway ↗
Drop Dead, early campaigns
02 Drop Dead, early campaigns
Oli Sykes’s label, born in Sheffield’s hardcore and MySpace scene. Acid colour, repeated type, friends as models.
Drop Dead, brand story ↗
Drop Dead, Cats & Bats
03 Drop Dead, Cats & Bats
The print first developed around 2009, revived as the brand’s signature. Current product photography.
Drop Dead ↗
Rick Owens, Lido, SS2024 menswear
04 Rick Owens, Lido, SS2024 menswear
Tiny cropped jacket with huge padded shoulders over floor-sweeping leather flares. The silhouette rule for this story in one look: tight and small at the top, huge below. Black, severe, rock without a single logo.
Vogue Runway ↗
Drop Dead, Gen D, 2024
05 Drop Dead, Gen D, 2024
The 20th-anniversary collection: how the silhouette moved on from the tight 2000s tee.
Kerrang!, 1 July 2024 ↗
Drop Dead, vintage illustrated tee
06 Drop Dead, vintage illustrated tee
Dripping letters, monster drawing, comic proportions. The graphic language to invent from, not to copy.

A band T-shirt costs £15 and gets kept for twenty years. Watanabe and Undercover already cut tour tees into new garments in 2006, so the twist here is different: one recognisable tee, built into a rigorous couture shape, as if it were an heirloom. The basement is the ballroom.

Also studyJunya Watanabe, SS2006, chopped tour tees ↗Raf Simons, Riot, Riot, Riot, AW2001 ↗Raf Simons, Closer, AW2003 (Peter Saville) ↗John Galliano for Dior, SS2001, high meets lowJunya Watanabe, SS2007, dandy tailoringThursday basement shows; Warped Tour, 2006
Mood: 20 pinsOpen the board ↗
Palette, materials, silhouette03

Tar
#241E1C

Oxblood leather
#6A4641

Faded red
#BD7062

Concrete
#7E8081

Nicotine
#B9AA9C

Bleach
#E8E2DE

Stage red
#B3261E
accent

Pulled from the pixels of the 20 references. The accent is chosen by hand.

Materials
Cut and re-sewn band tees
Raw and bleached denim
Track jersey with side stripes
Patent leather, studs
Hand-painted slogans
Silhouette rules
Tight and small at the top, huge and formal below
One real piece of merch per look, built into the tailoring
No real band graphics: invent the band
Keep some of the original awkwardness: crooked prints, over-washed cotton
Looks, AI mock-ups04

Mock-ups made in ChatGPT to test each look before a shoot. They are not photographs.

AI mock-up of look 1: A worn black band tee as the fitted bodice of a structured faille ball skirt; stretched collar left intact
AI mock-up, generated in ChatGPT. Not a photograph.
01 The heirloom
A worn black band tee as the fitted bodice of a structured faille ball skirt; stretched collar left intact
AI mock-up of look 2: A washed-black hoodie for the made-up band GRUZ, re-cut into a fitted jacket with huge padded shoulders and a pointed hood, sleeves far over the hands; wide washed denim, studded belt and chain, studded boots
AI mock-up, generated in ChatGPT. Not a photograph.
02 Ceremonial hoodie
A washed-black hoodie for the made-up band GRUZ, re-cut into a fitted jacket with huge padded shoulders and a pointed hood, sleeves far over the hands; wide washed denim, studded belt and chain, studded boots
AI mock-up of look 3: Black tailored jacket with exaggerated shoulders, a printed band tee safety-pinned into its front as if the two are fighting, a floor-length skinny tie, red knitted balaclava, wide pleated trousers
AI mock-up, generated in ChatGPT. Not a photograph.
03 Fighting for control
Black tailored jacket with exaggerated shoulders, a printed band tee safety-pinned into its front as if the two are fighting, a floor-length skinny tie, red knitted balaclava, wide pleated trousers
Casting, location, shot list05
Casting
Real musicians and gig-goers; ask KiNi's band and friends
Location
A small London basement venue after hours (Hackney or Camden)
Light
On-camera flash, plus the venue's own red light
Hair, make-up
Smudged eyeliner, greasy hair, one strong lip
Props
Merch table, setlist taped to the floor, mic stand
  1. Group shot behind the merch table
  2. Full-length on the empty stage
  3. Detail: cut and re-sewn tee
  4. Flash shot in the venue toilet
  5. Crowd-surf pose on friends' hands